Chore schedule

Chore schedule 

Annually

Early spring

•    March – early April
  •   Remove any wisteria seedpods that you missed removing in fall or winter.
  •   Mid-March – move pots of  garlic that were stored in the garage for the winter back out onto the driveway.
•    April- early May
  •   First week of April – plant pots of peas; choose varieties with different days-to-maturity in order to extend the growing season (days-to-maturity range from low 50s to 70+)  Peas need cool soil to germinate, so plant early.  Soak the peas overnight in water before planting. Ideally, just before planting, drain the water off and toss the seeds with inoculant meant for peas and beans.  Wear protective rubber gloves when working with the peas – the seeds are likely coated in fungicide.  Teepees of 6’ bamboo poles make good supports for the peas.
  • Plant lettuce seeds in pots – they are also cool season plants so will germinate and start to grow while conditions are fairly cool.
  • Move any pots of ‘mums that overwintered in the garage out onto the driveway.
  •   Cut back culinary sage in the herb bed on the south side of the driveway.  Cut back to just above the woody growth.
  •   In the front bed, cut back previous year’s Siberian iris foliage as close to the ground as you can without cutting off emerging new foliage.
  •   In the backyard, cut along edge (where grass and path meet) of the rectangular lawn. Pull any grass roots that have encroached on the path and remove any weeds or moss from the path..  Use stakes and string to keep the edge line straight.
  •   As above, cut along the edge of the path to south gate arbour, the path between the north alley gate and north end of the moat bed with half-moon edger or edging spade.  Pull any encroaching grass or clover roots.  (See related text sections for more details).  Just cut straight down to sever any grass and clover roots that may have started to encroach on the path.  Do not ‘trench edge’ as that will create a hazard for crossing from the path to the grass.  The packed surface of the path and the path material discourages invasion of grass and clover so it’s not difficult to just remove the few encroaching roots to make a crisp-looking transition from grass to path.
  • In the south driveway border, remove any grass or other weeds that are creeping under the stone edging.  Remove prior year’s now-dead daylily foliage.  Cut off winterkill on roses and/or cut back rose stems as desired, removing a few older stems to thin out the plantings.  Remove dead flowers on  the potentilla shrubs and about 1/3 of the oldest/thickest stems
  • Cut back spindly stems on the Ninebark shrub to ground level.  Cut back any dead stems of the Midnight Marvel hardy hibiscus under the ninebark to ground level as well. A three-pronged hand cultivator tool and the crack-weeder tools can be particularly useful.  Clearing this bed can be left until late April if desired.
  •   Once leaf buds swell enough to be clearly visible, prune hydrangeas in all beds to control size and shape them as desired.
  •   Once growth buds are visible on the Russian sage in the front beds, cut the plants back to 6” or so.
  •   Note where you might like more spring bulbs next year.
  •   Fertilize lawn with spring formula lawn fertilizer.
  •   Inspect brick edging in front garden.  Remove any grass or weeds that have found their way into the crevices.
  •   Train new peony growth into the copper-tubing rings.
  •   Cut back ‘Queen Elizabeth’ rose in driveway border when new growth buds appear.
  •  Prune off any tip die-back on Angel and Oso Easy roses in the south driveway border – and shorten canes by 1/3-1/2 if you wish.
  •   Fertilize all clematises with fertilizer formulated for clematises.
  •   Fertilize roses with rose fertilizer.  Spread ½ bag of composted sheep manure or several shovelfuls of garden compost around the Queen Elizabeth rose in the driveway border.
  •   Also spread compost or sheep manure at the base of the clematises on the south gate arbour.
  •   Do not mow the house side of the front ditch in spring until early June to allow the bulb foliage to ripen so the bulbs will flower the following year.
  •   Remove a number of the ostrich ferns in the wet corner in early spring as you see the fiddleheads arise – they are spreading too fast – keep them confined to the SW corner by removing any that appear more than 4’ or so from the corner.
  •   Once the last of the previous year’s oak leaves have fallen from the oak tree, chop the leaves that have accumulated against the south fence with a mulching leaf blower and spread the chopped leaves on the beds under the oak tree and along the south alley beds.  Do the same with any leaves that have accumulated along the kitchen wall of the house.
  •   If you noticed a decline in flowering of the honeysuckle vines (on the north alley fence and fence near oak) in the previous year, prune out some of the older stems.
  •   The clematises on the copper fence and the top end of the chainlink fence in the north alley can be cut back to the top of the chainlink fence (i.e. cut back to 3-4′).
  •   In all beds remove any old perennial stems that were not removed in fall.  Remove dead leaves (and snails!) from around the hostas, heucheras, and any other perennials with new growth showing at the base.
  • Remove at ground level any spindly stems of serviceberry and Saskatoon-berry trees/shrubs (under oak, in large north backyard bed, between garage and back of front bed….) or they will gradually form a thicket instead of the preferred multi-stemmed trees!

Late spring (late May-early June)

•   Walk around the garden frequently – preferably daily – watching for buckthorn seedlings, wood sorrel, Yellow Avens, and garlic mustard weed.  Remove any you find.
• Check closely for Yellow Avens, particularly under the large variegated weigela shrub in the big front bed, and in the north driveway border.  Dig out any you see – need to remove them before they flower and set seed.
•   Inspect brick edging in front garden.  Remove any grass or weeds that have found their way into the crevices.
•   Cut old-fashioned ‘mums in the driveway/moat border back to 6-8 inches twice before the first of July to make sturdy, bushy plants with lots of flowers. (Do not remove prior year’s dead foliage until you see new growth starting at the base.)
•   Snap off seedheads from tulips once the tulip flower petals drop or, preferably, cut the spent flowerstalk down to its base at soil level, leaving the leaves to feed the bulb.
•   Plant tomatoes in pots and/or in the south driveway border when soil and air temperatures are suitable – last week of May or first week of June usually.
• If emerging foliage on the Japanese wisteria hides the flowers, prune off the foliage that is hiding the flowers – see pictures in The Moat Bed section.
•   Shorten all new wisteria growth to 6-8” as it arises.
•   Watch for and promptly remove any wisteria root suckers.  Ideally tear the suckers off the underlying roots rather than just pruning them to soil level. (You want to remove the budwood that gives rise to the suckers…)
•   If beans are desired, plant pots of pole beans in late May (soil must be warm or the seeds will rot – don’t plant too early.)  Soak the beans in water overnight before planting.  Ideally, just before planting, drain the water and toss the seeds in inoculant meant for peas and beans.  Wear protective rubber gloves when working with the beans – the seeds are likely coated with fungicide. Use an 8’ teepee of bamboo poles for supports in the pots for the beans – 6’ poles are not tall enough.
•   Mow the house side of the ditch the last week of May or early June when the bulb foliage has died back.
•   There has sometimes been an excess of purple coneflowers and perennial geranium seedlings in the front beds.  Remove some seedling clumps each year to control the numbers.
•  Beginning in  2014 a leaf-mining pest attacked the leaves of Solomon’s Seal.  This continues to be a problem – you may want to remove some of the Solomon’s Seal  – or at least cut it down at the first signs of damage

Summer – all months:

•   Continue to patrol for weed seedlings, especially wood sorrel and Yellow Avens in the front beds.
•   At least once a month, inspect brick edging in front garden.  Remove any grass or weeds that have found their way into the crevices.
•   Snip off any euonymus stems that reach above deck level in the front porch bed and prune the euonymuses growing at the base of the iron arbour to keep them as mounds of about 24-30″.  Try not to accidentally cut clematis stems that also grow on the arbour.
•   Shorten all new wisteria growth to 6-8” as it arises.
•   Watch for and promptly remove any wisteria root suckers.  Ideally tear the suckers off the underlying roots rather than just pruning them to soil level.
•   Give the porch bed a thorough soaking with a hose every 10 days or so, especially during drought periods.
•   Whenever the ‘Silver Mound’ artemesias (in moat bed and various places at the front edge of the large front bed) get taller than 6”, clip then down to 4” with grass shears. (We have gradually removed/weakened this artemesia so there may not be much left!)
•   Pull any lily-of-the-valley that reappears in the the garage bed and nearby lawn, and near the variegated weigela in the front bed.
•   Watch out for lily-of-the-valley appearing under the pine in the backyard.  Remove any you see.
•   Remove at ground level any lilac root suckers you see – check both the tall lilac against the kitchen wall and the various dwarf lilacs in the front beds and near the south gate and in the front bed and moat-bed.
• Beginning in mid-summer, watch for leaf damage on Solomon’s Seal in the backyard.  Remove any affected stems at the base and discard into the garbage (do not compost them!)
• Cut back or remove plants or growth that brushes against you when walking along paths – that will help reduce the risk of picking up ticks if any are present in the garden.

mid-late June:

•  Prune out 1/3 of the stems of the bridalwreath spireas, Beautybush and mockorange after they finish flowering in June.  Remove the stems at the base, selecting the oldest/biggest for removal each year.  If necessary, also shorten any particularly long remaining stems by 1/3-1/2.  It may be desirable to cut the bridalwreath spireas to the ground after flowering if the shrubs get too big – always cut them back just after they finish flowering to ensure flowerbuds for the next year have time to develop.  The beautybush is less happy with being cut to the ground so pruning to remove the lower growth on individual trunk-like stems may be a better approach as the shrub gets older.
•   Feverfew in the front beds has served its purpose and now should be removed (and replaced with dwarf candytuft – if you can find some to plant…)  Pull any feverfew you see.  You can leave the cuttings on the ground as mulch to compost in place as long as they are not in flower and ready to go to seed.
•   When pea pots have finished producing peas, remove and compost the spent foliage.  Leave the soil in the pots if you wish to use the pots to plant a display of asters and ‘mums for late summer.
•   Deadhead the large lilac by the chimney, being careful not to cut off next year’s flowerbuds which develop at the base of the current year’s flowers.  The long-arm pruners are useful for deadheading the lilac.

July

• Order any spring bulbs you may have decided to add to the spring display.  (I usually order on-line from Botanus in B.C. – good quality and good price).  More small bulbs will likely be needed to be added to the ditch plantings.
•   Remove faded tulip foliage once it can be removed with a gentle tug (usually in mid-late July).
•   Deadhead Rodgersia in front porch bed as soon as the flowers start to fade.
•   After the early, large-flowered clematises finish flowering, fertilize again with clematis fertilizer.
•   Make sure you deadhead the Sanguisorba and Knautia on the south edge of the front bed as they finish flowering, to ensure they don’t seed excessively. (There are not many left now so this might not be a necessary chore.)
•   The Russian sage in various places in the front bed can get large and encroach on paths and the bench.  Do not hesitate to cut back any parts that are interfering with access – it might delay some bloom, but that just extends the season…
•   Deadhead dwarf goatsbeard in north alley near the back porch, and in the oak bed, near the path leading to the south alley to prevent seeding.
•   Deadhead the large goatsbeard in the wet corner if that one wasn’t deadheaded earlier.
• Prune off stems of the mockorange (by the kitchen window and the dwarf one in the main front bed near the right side of the arbour) that flowered in the current year.  Also remove any straight root-suckers.   That will control the size of the shrub and encourage better flowering in subsequent years.
• Watch for signs of Sawfly damage to Solomon’s Seal foliage.  Cut stems of any damaged foliage down to the ground and discard into the garbage (not into the compost bins!)

August

•   Deadhead daisies and coneflowers down to next visible flower bud or, if there are no more flower buds on the stem, cut the stem to the ground.  Daisies no longer suit the garden and can be removed completely.  There are not many left now….
•   When pole beans have finished producing, remove and compost spent foliage.  The soil in the pots can also be composted or spread as mulch in the front and driveway beds.
•    The Russian sage in various places in the front bed can get large and encroach on paths and the bench.  Do not hesitate to cut back any parts that are interfering with easy movement along the paths.
•   After the hibiscus flowers finish in late August-early September, deadhead the round seed capsules while they’re still green – you want to remove them before they turn brown, dry, split and drop their seeds.
• Continue to monitor Solomon’s Seal for Sawfly damage and cut back and discard foliage into the garbage as necessary.

Fall

•   Chop with lawnmower or mulching leaf blower any leaves that fell on the lawn in the backyard.   (With the removal of the ash tree in 2022, there are considerably less leaves dropping in the Fall, but there are oak leaves and some leaves from ornamental understory trees, and the white pine needles.  Most of the white pine needles fall in the bed underneath the pine or on the paths and can be left in place to add organic matter to the soil as they break down.  The needles that fall on the lawn can be raked into nearby beds.) Add the chopped leaves to nearby garden beds.  (The leaves can also be used whole, although they break down quicker when chopped.)
•  Do not use a leaf blower on the paths under the pine as it will blow off the accumulated broken-down needles that are an important part of the soil there.
•   Fertilize lawn with fall formula lawn fertilizer.
•   Plant any fall bulbs you may have decided to add to the ditch and elsewhere in the garden.
•   In late October, do a final inspection of the brick edging in front garden.  Remove any grass or weeds that have found their way into the crevices.
•   Cut peony foliage (driveway border, front bed) to the ground and discard in the garbage pick-up (not into compost pile as it can carry botrytis and mildew).
•   Cut hibiscus foliage down to 6” and discard into the compost pile.  (Be careful not to cut off the autumn crocus flowers that are growing with the hibiscuses along the north driveway border.)
• Cut Persicaria polymorpha (front bed, oak bed, shed bed, under pine, north woodland, patio bed) down to the ground and discard into the compost pile
• When wisteria leaves drop, remove any seed pods you see.  Brush fallen wisteria leaves off the edging bricks to prevent the rotting leaves staining the bricks.

Winter

•   Keep driveway borders covered with snow when clearing snow from the driveway.
• Jan. – Feb. order seeds for veggie garden (remember to choose 4-5 different pea varieties based on days-to-maturity, to ensure a long crop season).

Every 2-3 years

•   Refresh path surfaces with mulch/sand mixture (1/3 concrete sand; 2/3 pine bark or 100% hemlock mulch – see Paths section of Backyard description, and pack down with water-filled roller – although I don’t always do that rolling…!  The paths were last refreshed in spring 2022.)

Every 10 years

• Get a tetanus shot!  Anyone who ‘plays in the dirt’ needs a tetanus shot.  If you haven’t had one, get one.  And get a booster shot every ten years.